Leiden is on the Oude Rijn, part of the Rhine delta that empties into the North Sea. Like a number of historic cities in the Netherlands, it’s old; a hill settlement goes back to at least 860. The country’s oldest university, Leiden University, was founded here in 1575. A picturesque, canal-filled, culturally vibrant city, it seemed a good place to begin a trip to northern Europe – not least because our flight from Seattle landed in nearby Amsterdam.
I found an airbnb in a beautiful home on a canal that turned out to be one of the best places I’ve ever stayed in. Language wasn’t a problem – in Leiden, most people are fluent in English. Museums are not as crowded as they are in big cities like Amsterdam, and there are plenty of things to see, like Rembrandt’s birthplace and an historic botanical garden. The transportation seemed doable, too, so we made Leiden the first destination of a three-week northern Europe trip.
Leiden turned out to be more delightful than we could have imagined. The people we met were open, warm, enthusiastic, intelligent. I know, it seems idealized and it’s a generalization, but that was our experience. The food we ate wasn’t elaborate, but it was excellent. It seemed that the ingredients were fresher and respectful attention went into the preparation. I enjoyed the aesthetic awareness and care brought to bear on everyday functionality (like trains and buses) and the mundane details of daily life (like clean streets). In restaurants and coffee shops people were immersed in animated conversations.
Western civilization’s long history in Europe lends a certain depth to life there that is lacking in the U.S. On the other hand, I think Americans have an innate sense of wide-open possibilities and a tendency to face towards the future, characteristics that Europe’s tradition-laden culture doesn’t support as readily. Of course, my observations were gleaned from a few weeks travel, not a year or a decade living there, so they’re superficial. The same holds for my photographs. They lack the depth that I’m able to bring to subjects that I’ve lived with for a long time. With those reservations, here’s a group of photos from four days spent walking around Leiden.
The highlights of Leiden were things we didn’t plan, as is often the case. We stumbled across an especially fascinating “un-museum” – the American Pilgrim Museum. There was a good hour or more spent exploring a spell-binding antique store housed in a warren of centuries-old, connected buildings. The Saturday market and the botanical garden next to Leiden University were both impressive, but I’ll save the garden, antique shop and museum for later.
While we were in Leiden we took a quick train ride to Rotterdam; that’s another story too. From Leiden we traveled to Ghent in Belgium, another old city full of canals and history. There was a day in Lille, France, a week in Germany, and a few days in Amsterdam. We were on the move a lot, though we avoided one-night stops.
Most people I know have been to Europe, many of them more than once. I wasn’t interested in Europe when I was younger. Later, family and job responsibilities kept me from traveling more than a week at a time. But finally the time, the desire, and the funds converged, and so we did bounce from country to country a bit, wanting to experience as much as possible. As I get a little more perspective on the trip it seems worth it. It was a late-life crash course in northern European culture, and we’re better for having done it.
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bluebrightly 
So lovely to see Leiden through your eyes. I’ve been to the Netherlands several times but not to Leiden. I’d love to be able to spend more time in Europe – slow travel, but it’s probably not to be.
Alison
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I understand – there are so many places to see. Some we have to see vicariously, right? 🙂
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Beautiful pictures!!
The translation is roughly: Coffeeshop Jantje van Leiden. Tintin had no sex? Come on……
Artist: Jaques Tur…?
Restauration: Antje Schutte
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Thank you! I got something like that with google translate but I wans’t sure. Are you originally from Holland?
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I’ve lived there a couple of years.
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Pretty good! Jacques Turk is an artist from Leiden. He made the Kuifje (Tintin, from the famous cartoon) and Klaartje figures in the Jantje van Leiden bar. In the cartoons Kuifje is always busy, chasing the bad guys; no time for sex. I guess the artist wanted to show the hidden side of Tintin, by puting his naked, pregnant lady next to him. Shocking…?. Some people thought so and brutaly damaged the couple.. they were restored again by Antje Schutte. 😃✋
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Leiden seems so young and easy-going through your eyes. Your photographs and descriptions incite me to go there too.
Compared to Brugge, which I’ve got to know as lovely but a bit museum, Leiden seems genuine and even vibrant.
Although your pictures are more touristic (of course 🙂)than we are used to from your ordinary extraordinary ones, I cannot find a lack of depth that you allege, and extraordinary, they certainly are, as always.
I’m looking forward to more of your Northern Europe.
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It did feel young and easy-going, and it’s a university town, and it was Spring… 😉 Even though it was cold that week, people were happy. I heard Brugge is full of tourists, so we chose Ghent – and Leiden. It never felt like there were lots of tourists in Leiden. You’re very kind, Ule, about the photos….thank you. Have a good week!
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It was a good choice to visit Leiden instead of Brugge, I’m sure. Concerning your photos, Lynn: just facts 🙂.
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Facts, OK! 😉
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I can see how much you enjoyed this Lynn. Leiden looks delightful, especially your canal shots. Any view where I can look at boats makes me happy and I have one this morning in the Azores 😍🚣💕
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That sounds wonderful, Jo! The canals do contribute a relaxed feeling, and they change the way you pay attention as you walk, I think. Water….such a happy-making element!
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Gorgeous shots !
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Thank you very much!!
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Fine series, Lynn; Shows the atmosphere of the city very well! 🙂
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I would love to spend another few weeks there. I almost included another one of you, in an alley….not a great photo, but the memories are nice. 🙂 Thanks Harrie, I hope you’re having a pleasant week. 🙂
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We are in Belgium most of June; biking around old train tracks in Belgium, Germany and Luxembourg. Looking forward. Have fun.; See you!
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That’s great! Well, I am envious. You may get sore but you’ll be eating well. 🙂 Have a great time! Can’t wait to see photos.
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You are making me so homesick..and no doubt you now know that Rembrandt studied there.
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We walked by his birthplace, and then saw rooms and rooms of his work at the Rijksmuseum later, which was great. Leiden was bursting with energy, but it’s so down to earth at the same time. I didn’t know you spent time there – or in the area.
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I am Dutch by birth , spend my whole childhood, school years there before aupairing in the UK …etc, etc!
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What wonderful shots, Lynn. I love the bicycles, that sunlight on the underside of the bridge, that residence, the books. You’ve captured so many things that make up the essence of Leiden. I’m glad you enjoyed your trip!
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Leiden was fantastic, Cathy….it made for a delightful beginning. Thanks, I’m glad you like the photos. 🙂
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Can’t wait to see more from your travels, Lynn. 🙂
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Fabulous way to begin my day! Thanks for the trip! I work on the Erie Canal, so especially enjoyed seeing older counterparts.
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Interesting, Jean, I’m glad you could make that connection. Having canals everywhere seems to slow life down a bit, not to mention the lack of cars. But wow, can they move fast on those bikes – watch out! 😉
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Leiden is a beautiful city, isn’t. And you were able to capture is more quiet and laid back beauty compared to the bigger Dutch cities.
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That’s why I thought it would be a good place to spend some time – having lived in New York City, I know how a big city can drain the energy away, especially when you’re traveling and everything is new. That being said, we really enjoyed walking around Amsterdam too. Thank you, Otto.
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Enjoyed this album very, very much. I’ll always make time to enjoy sights like 19, with the wonderful glowing bridge, and the 18 & 23 water shots. You downplayed your observations as superficial, and sure it’s a different thing to breathe in, soak up, and pick up a community’s rhythm over a considerable time, but this is a very deft travel piece, a great feel of someone’s impressions on first encountering a fantastic place, and you’ve shared a very pleasant walk-through. And I see a local photographer has complimented your series, that must feel pretty good, cheers! 🙂
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It’s music to my ears, Robert, hearing you say “deft travel piece.” 🙂 I didn’t want to make it too much of a travel piece, since that’s not my thing, but then it IS a travel piece, so….I tried to find a middle ground. I’m not sure if you’re referencing Harrie, above….we met in Leiden and had a really nice afternoon, sitting at an outdoor cafe and roaming around the old parts of town. Hanging out with people from the area makes all the difference, as I’m sure you know. So glad you enjoyed the post!
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It’s always a pleasure to take a walk with you, Lynn. You gave me the sights. I can imagine the sounds, aromas, and flavors.
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I bet you can! And rest assured, there were no unpleasant smells. 😉 Speaking of the other senses, you remind me of all the church bells we heard, and the relative quiet of the city without highways nearby. It’s a very civilized place.
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I love small towns in Europe.
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Hi Lynn, You are a terrific travel writer along with your photography skills. Your opening shot is inviting and your second shot is a wonderful quiet slice of life- the three with dogs are perfect with the flowers. Your canal reflections are gorgeous and the detail shots of your stops intriguing. Thanks for taking me to Leiden. 🙂
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One of those dogs plowed through that field of white daffodils – I was sorry I didn’t catch that, it was a great sight. Watching that canal every morning and evening was such a treat. And Leiden was a very easy place to wander around slowly. Thank you for the kind words, Jane, I appreciate it!
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Wow, what a beautiful city! I didn’t know anything about it, only the name I have to admit, but I think it is worth a visit. In case I will go to that area I will keep it in mind. Very nice. Your photos show lovely places. I like the bricks and the old tiny houses are wonderful! And picture nr 19 is gorgeous!! A golden bridge! As well as the other canal-reflections. I think the jackdaws aren’t afraid of anything, haha. Interesting your thoughts about the different mentalities (of course no generalizations, but some of it may be true). I sometimes think a crossing of both could be ideal 😉 I am curious what will be next! This was a very nice appetizer. Thank you for your special-Lynn-pictures which makes it even more attractive 🙂
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To this American, it seems like a really quick and easy trip from where you are, so I do hope you go at some point. You’d like the botanical garden, even though it’s smaller than yours….there’s a small bust of Linneaus there, a lovely little wild garden with a burbling spring, and scads of orchids and live butterflies in the conservatory. The jackdaws were entertaining, as were the coots that are always patrolling the canals. Old World and New World characteristics, balanced yet distinct? How would that be? Thanks for your comments, Almuth….have a good afternoon, no evening now!
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It sounds really wonderful! Haha, yes, for an American it is a short distance. I saw so many pictures of Amsterdam this year it really attracts me to go there some time! Now it is late again – and you will have midday I suppose? Have a good day then! We had lots of sun and 33 degrees…we have still 21 now. Too warm to sleep.
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What a beautiful old place – I don’t think that the UK can match this kind of beauty and quality – maybe everything here is just aimed more at the great gods Cash and Profit.
And I’m interested in “I think Americans carry a sense of wide possibilities, facing towards the future, “, because I took many Americans on safari in the 1980s and found a similar attitude, really quite a refreshing attitude. A 🙂
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These photos hardly hint at the beauty….but I hate to think one couldn’t find such beauty in the UK – somewhere? Generalizations can be especially dangerous in print, on the internet, but with that caveat, it looks like we’ll agree. 😉
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Hardly superficial, I suspect these captured the flavor very well. I’m so used to only having a day or so, and even less for free exploration – four days seems a luxury.
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I tried not to do that, knowing how frustrating it can be to have only a day or two in a great location. We were in Leiden five nights, four in Ghent, but only two in Cologne. There were another five nights in Hannover, and two in Amsterdam, so all in all we managed to get at least a working idea of each place. 🙂
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It’s always time for a “late-life crash course”….of everything! Almost…
I like the details, those details that most people do not notice.
Beautifull post!
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Ha! Yes, we can take any crash course that appeals to us, right? Details….I am always noticing them, but hopefully I don’t lose the big picture! Thank you.
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What a tour you have taken us on, Lynn. A regular Rick Steves you are (I hope you like the comparison). One reason I regret not traveling is our country is so young, comparatively, and the age and maturity of Europe appear so appealing, especially when the camera is in your hands. 🙂
No idea about the stack of circular stones in number 15 but I do like the landscape over the door. 🙂
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Can I be a little ambivalent about the Rick Steves comparison? But I know it’s meant well so I appreciate that. Spending time in the Old World does help one understand some of the differences between here and there a little better. And maybe I got more out of it than I would have at 22. 🙂
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Of course. If you aren’t a fan then I’d say ambivalent is generous. 🙂
I think that is fairly true of all life’s experiences. At our later years (not saying you are anywhere near my age 🙂 ) we certainly bring more to everything we do.
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Your observations correspond closely with my own experiences of Holland and the Dutch and the photos, likewise, convey the flavour of the country. Thanks for taking me with you!
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I’m pleased to hear that, Louis….and oh, the flavor was wonderful. 😉
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What a delightful visit you’ve just taken me on! #1 made me think about breaking my rule about not ever flying again… ever. But then I can just come back here and visit it through your sweet and mellow eyes. Perhaps not the “real” thing, but the next best. Thanks for this marvelous journey.
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Flying is the pits these days, no question, The flight over, leaving in the afternoon, seeing night come and go in a matter of hours and landing in the morning, was terrible – because I didn’t sleep at all. I was a whole day down on sleep. But then everything is so exciting, and in Leiden, it’s so relaxed and people are so positive and friendly, that you forget your tiredness, and there’s little stress anyway. Coming home was easier, it was a daytime flight. Hopefully I’ll have another Europe post before too long – I’m glad you enjoyed, Gunta!
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Long time ago I was in Leiden. I love the architecture and the little places. If you don’t like big cities like Amsterdam it is perfect for a city trip.
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Yes, the architecture was fabulous! I wish there were places like that closer to home! 🙂 Thanks for stopping by and commenting!
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My aunt lives in Leiden…and I’m Dutch so I’m biased and love all of it…I’m most comfortable in the Netherlands…for photography is beautiful with colours reflections and line…you’re eye captures the beauty and feeling of Leiden…thanks for this Lynn 🤓✌️💫❣️
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I didn’t know….it was our favorite of the four countries we visited….so comfortable, even to these non-Dutch folks. 😉 Thank you, Hedy!
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Looks like a great trip with great photos too. The first thing I though of when I saw 19 was that it looks like a man-made Mesa Arch at sunrise! Cool!!
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That’s so funny about the arch! I had to tone down the color, it was intense! Yes, it was quite a trip, and more photos to come, by and by….
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Thanks so much for sharing and giving me the opportunity to travel vicariously. 15, 19, and 26 were the standouts of the series for me. I especially could hardly tear myself away from 15, and I went back to absorb it two more times while reading and seeing the post. I’m glad it was a fun and enriching trip for you!
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So glad you enjoyed the vicarious pleasure, Sheri, and I hope you can get over there sometime….but oh, that long flight! Ugh.
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Yes absolutely, you don’t bring to Leiden the same depth of comprehension you have when on familiar ground — but you do bring a fresh eye, a startled eye, and that has its own kind of depth…
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A startled eye, I like that! You always have fresh eyes, so coming from you, that’s a great compliment. Thank you Penny!
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A very European feeling post! Looks like you had a lot of fun with your new surroundings! I have a lot of favorites … 1, 2,14, 18, 24, 25 & 26! 🙂
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I totally did, and there’s more coming….just have to get to it…so many wonderful wildflowers these days. Also, I’m working on a collaboration about a very old brick pigsty building in a small village, with one of the people I met in Germany, a blogging friend. 🙂
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